I was looking forward to today. Today there would be wading down a stream (something I always used to enjoy at work in Tassy...it's cool and often times it's more open and easier to traverse than the bush...and there's water to cushion a fall (though with the obvious disadvantage of getting wet). The track promised quite a bit of variety actually: gravel road, 4WD track, stream wade, bush track, ridge climb, and more gravel road out to the intended campsite at Puketi Forest Headquarters. This would be a 25 km, a big ask for me, especially on harder terrain (previously I only managed 24 km, and that was on a beach), but I was determined to do it.
I decided I cannot stomach forcing down muesli for breakfast anymore, so with the prospect of ebing able to resupply in two days and having excess food I made mi-goreng noodles for breakfast. Something warm and tasty, much more like it!
A fair bit of condensation on the fly this morning so I split-struck the tent to keep the innards dry before setting off back onto the trail. It heads along the road where it comes to a concrete ford over a stream. The book says not to go on if this ford is covered by water as it means the stream wading ahead will be too hazardous, but with so little rain recently there was no chance the ford would be covered and it wasn't. I took the opportunity (having washed myself the previous night) to wash a few items of clothing, most crucially my shirt. It's quick-dry material so it doesn't hold much water once wrung, and the cool wetness worked well as I slogged it up the next ridge and down to the Mangapukahukahu Stream (try saying that ten times fast...).
2.5 km wading between gravel banks brings you to the confluence with the Waipapa River and I made good time...including stopping for a quick swim in one of the larger pools. And I mean a QUICK swim. You barely have time to get in, get under and gasp before you're reflex action is to get out again--so cold!
After a snack break at the intersection with the river I waded across and headed off along the Omahuta River Track. In this case the word "track" should be interpreted loosely. It's a mostly one foot-width wide worn path along the steep semi-gorge side of the Waipapa River. Parts of it have slipped away and its a scramble to get across without slipping down the bank yourself. Then when you come to one of several small incised trickles running into the main river you often have to jump the gap...not something I'd be confident doing even without a massive pack on. Less than a kilometer in my hip was playing up with the constant up and down and bracing and I was tiring quickly. It was only a matter of time before I slipped and ended up sliding down into the river anyway I decided to try the alternative--wading up the river, the same as I'd waded down the stream. It's listed as a viable alternative in the trail notes, and really, having done it, you'd be silly not to choose the river over the track. Granted there hasn't been much rain, but even at the deepest point at which I was forced to cross the river only got to just above my knee (though there are much deeper pools you wouldn't want to inadvertently walk into).
Unfortunately all good river wades must come to an end and this one did with a junction with the Puketea Ridge Track. Not far up there's a nice little campsite flanked by branches of the river on either side, but before long the track heads up, and up...and up...onto Puketea Ridge. It's a hell of slog, but the track is dry and it passes up through a lovely grove of Kauri trees. Once on top it runs along the ridge, up and down as required, similar to but in moderately better condition than parts of the Raetea Track. The Puketea Track continues until it intersects with Pirau Ridge Rd, from which it is a 9km road walk out to the Puketi Recreation Centre and campsite. I got to the junction just before 5 pm. There was a campsite a short distance back up the track, but that would mean an extra 9 km to get to Kerikeri tomorrow, which let's face it, was unlikely to happen on top of the 25 km already needing to be covered. Consequently I had a short break, scarfed some chocolate and a cookie and set off. Time to break out the trail tunes. Much like on 90 Mile Beach a Disney medley got me through the first 4.5 km and a musical song medley through the next 4 km (the last kilometer or so was a simple exhausted slog to the finish). I find myself wondering why I don't sing pop songs instead, but I've come to realise I like singing songs with which I have strong visual images associated. For one thing I'm better at remembering their words, and also this way they play a movie in my head as I sing and therefore help to better take my mind off my aching feet and fatigue. (So be prepared, and I apologise in advance, for no doubt more Disney and Musical interludes along this journey...just be glad you aren't walking alongside me!).
With the sun getting low on the horizon I staggered into Puketi Campsite, receiving a few odd looks from the other campers, mostly camping out of the backs of cars or RVs. I seem to be the only hiker. Ironically the car-campers had taken all the obvious grassy spots so I retreated into a dirt floor spot under the trees away from the others and cleared cones and needles from a space large enough to house my tent. I got the fly up as quick as I could, hoping it would dry in the warm wind by the time I was ready for bed (which it pretty much did). It was getting dark as I made myself comfortable and ate pasta by torch-light. I figured with it being a long weekend I had better not leave accommodation in Kerikeri to chance, so taking advantage of mobile reception I did a ring around the backpackers. It's funny but even after spending five nights in the bush by myself the last thing I want to do is share a room, so I passed on the few available dorm beds and decided to splash out and get a motel room. It'll be $115 for the night, but I'll have it all to myself with my own facilities to I can clean and cook and moan and groan in private, and sleep to my hearts content. Am SO looking forward to it!
It's been an epic and enjoyable day, but I'm utterly, utterly exhausted. It's taken three massages to get my feet to stop aching, and I'm lying here with tremors. I know this means I've got some good exercise today but right now, really I just want to sleeeeeppp...
No comments:
Post a Comment