From the townhall I set off down the street and soon followed TA down a walkway into Tressilick Park. The walk drops down into a narrow river gorge lined with bush that was a wonderful surprise to find in the heart of Wellington. It's so quiet down there. I sat on a bench to eat my sandwich (it was supposed to be for lunch but ended up being breakfast) and could hear nothing but the trickle of the stream, birds singing, occasional dog walkers passing by (one dog, a cute little white snowball of a terrier, eagerly snaffled up a bit of chicken I'd dropped) and the odd train running along the tracks at the top of the gorge. But there was no traffic noise and no sirens. It didn't feel like being in a city at all.
The route through the gorge soon becomes complicated by a maze of little paths going this way and that, but I followed the main path and didn't go astray...unlike a dog walker who stopped to ask me directions to one if the streets. Unfortunately I couldn't help her, but hopefully some other dog walkers coming along behind us could (yes there were a lot of people out walking their dogs this morning!).
Climbing up out of the gorge it's a steep climb up a couple of short streets to the entrance to [sp] Reserve. From here a broad track sidles along the hillside beneath pine trees and bush before zig-zagging down to emerge on a road a couple of blocks from the Botanical Gardens. I stopped for a break on the way down. Having breafast so late was a bad call, but after having a muesli bar, a pear and a still-cold coke zero (Alyse seems to have an almost limitless supply) I felt much better and pushed on down, along and in through the Founders Gate to the Gardens.
There's so many paths through the gardens I struggled to which TA follows, and quickly enough I decided not to bother. I knew the trail went up to the Cable Car terminus so I just followed whichever paths took my fancy to get there.
On the way I walked past two people sitting on a bench and did a double take--I know those people! It was Hilary, a director, actor and drama coach I've worked with and taken a couple of lessons from, and her husband Richard, my third year university Professor! Accordingly I stopped to say hello and it was their turn to double taken, laden as I was, not wearing my customary jeans, and wearing a most uncustomary hat. After a moment they did recognise me and it was cheerful greetings all round. I'd actually had it in the back of my mind several days ago that it would be nice to bump into them at some point, but I expected it to happen (if it was going to) walking down the Kapiti Coast near where they live, not here in the heart of Wellington. Sometimes things just work out I guess.
After a quick catch up I wished them all the best, promised to keep in touch, and headed on up to the Cable Car. Coming back down again it feels almost like you are going down the same way you came up but eventually the path arcs around and down and pops out next to the cafe. Perfect--just in time for lunch!
The food looked nice but over-priced (welcome to Wellington). Undeterred I opted for the fresh fruit salad, a slice of orange cake and an iced chcolate (Trail 007--licence to eat!).
I sat outside in my sweaty and worn outdoor gear, making myself at home among the urban Thursday afternoon luncheon set. Unsurprisingly no one stopped to chat, and while one waitress was perfectly friendly, another looked as if she didn't think I was worthy of service...but then again some waitresses are like that with everyone (bad ones!).
After a nice lunch I set off again, down the street, through Memorial Park Cemetery and over the pedestrian bridge over the motorway. From here TA leads you down past the Beehive and Parliament and then off around Lampton Quay. Like any main street in any city the pavement was packed with an assortment of people, usually in a hurry to get somewhere, but I think I can safely say I was the only one striding down the street with shouldering an enormous pack, wearing a sunhat (once it's on it can't come off without leaving me with truely scary hat-hair), and with two walking poles clacking along on either side (it's true I could have packed them down into my pack, but a) I couldn't be bothered, and b) they give my hands something to do besides swing idly by my sides!). Figuring I was going to stand out anyway I decided to stride (and clack) down the street like I owned it. I did keep the clacking to a minimum as it seemed to unnerve a couple of people as I came up behind them to pass when a gap presented itself. Stopping to take a photo of a Te Araroa plaque in the pavement also scored me several odd looks but I didn't care. I like plaques and the like acknowledging the trail. They remind you that the stretch of track, road or footpath you are currently treading is part of something bigger, something epic, and that you have followed it here from far away. How many people in Wellington walk down Lampton Quay each day not realising they are walking part of a route that stretches all the way to Cape Reinga in the north and Bluff in the south. I'm reminded of a quote from Lord of the Rings (where else)..."it's a dangerous business Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to."
I've always liked that idea, being swept off on an adventure. I haven't exactly been swept (it's been more of a slog), and daily I've had a route planned of where I am going, but it's definitely been an adventure! And soon my North Island adventures would be over and my South Island adventure would begin.
'Here's to the North Island!' I thought and strode on...then shortly stopped when I spotted a Macpac and remembered I needed to buy a new gas cannister.
Turning off Lanpton Quay TA cuts through the Civic Centre and over the bridge to the water front. Heading off round the harbour, passing markets, Te Papa, music festival stalls setting up for a big night, eventually the numbers of people drop and you head out along the footpath round Oriental Bay. I stopped in a shady spot to reapply sunscreen before continuing on and then crossing the street to head up Mt Victoria. From here a semi-continuous trail--the Southern Walkway--undulates along the variously grassy, scrubby or forested ridge top from Mt Victoria, round the reservoir stop Mt Albert and then down into Buckley Rd before diverting down to Hougton Bay. It's a pleasant enough walk with occasional nice views over the suburbs that slowly pass by.
Turning a corner on the approach to Houghton Bay I suddenly saw the sea, close now, so close! Shortly I'd made it to the road that sidles along the coast between the shore and the houses. I was astonished at how huge the waves were in Houghton Bay! Along the coast to either side the waves were comparatively normal (chest-head height?) but the narrow confines of the bay they built up to three or four times the height of a man! And there were surfers trying to catch them! I stopped for a minute or two to watch but soon continued on. It's a short walk round the coast to the end of the trail in Island Bay.
It was getting on 5:30pm and the after-work runners and beach goers were heading home for dinner. I got the fright if my life when I walked close past an SUV and a large dog barked savagely at me out of the window. But up ahead I could see the quaint little park in which I expected to find a quaint little monument to the end (or start) of Te Araroa in the north island. In truth both the park and the monument are a little underwhelming (I was interested to see the trail has gained 80km in length since the plaque was installed), but it was still nice, nice to know that after 92 days on trail I had done it! I had walked (or paddled) the length of the North Island!!
Far from being over-excited my mood was more contemplative, only without much contemplation. On the whole I think I was just plain knackered after spending a day walking under a hot sun, just like any other fair-weather day on the trail. But I think a sense of the first part being complete also added to my general lethargy as I waited for Alyse and Pete, perched on the seawall. I always crash after completing any big project (and walking the length of the North Island is arguably one!), so I allowed myself to crash, knowing I had tonight and tomorrow to get it together, ready to take on Te Araroa Part 2: The South Island.
Soon enough Alyse and Pete pulled up and we had a short celebration consisting of "Yay!"s and "congratulations!", as I had finished the North Island, Alyse's job interview had gone well, and Pete had had another good day at work.
We swung past a chippy and had chips (as well as pork bun and wontons on my part) for dinner, sitting in the car down by the beach by the airport, intermittently watching waves and planes. Then we headed to Bex's to say hello and hear about how the previous two-days' work retreat she'd been away on had gone (they went quad-biking!). I took the opportunity to shower and pick up the rest of my gear (Alyse can have her mattress back tonight!). Then we all hoed into a packet of champagne-strawberry flavoured Tim-Tams that came as part of a "Black Box" package of free samples Alyse received today (they were nice, but not a patch on the dark chcolate and raspberry ones!).
Bex was feeling a little under the weather so she stayed home while Alyse, Pete and I went into town to go and have celebratory desert at award-winning Strawberry Fare. I had Devil's Cream Cake and even I was beaten, opting to take the rest home in a carton. Pete was also beaten by cheesecake for the second time in two days (and recorded history).
Back at the barracks all three of us crashed into our respective beds after Pete and Alyse retrieved their second mattress. I'm taking a day off tomorrow to chillax and hang out with them. Pete has work as usual but Alyse and I fully intend on sleeping in.
Oh yeah, did I mention I finished walking the length of the North Island today?!
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